It is known that Vacant Homes are an open invitation to be burglarized. Below are tips for Burglar Proofing your Vacant Home
Be sure to lock before you leave, and let a neighbor have a key.
A residence which presents a “lived-in” appearance is a deterrent to burglars. Never leave notes that can inform a burglar that your house is unoccupied. Make certain all windows and doors are secured before departing. An empty garage advertises your absence, so close the doors. Leave one or more interior lights on and perhaps have a radio playing (TV sets should not be left unattended). Timers may be purchased that will turn lights on and off during your absence.
Do not leave door keys under flower pots or doormats, inside an unlocked mailbox, over the doorway, or in other obvious places.
WHEN PLANNING A PROLONGED ABSENCES
Discontinue newspaper and other deliveries by phone or in person ahead of time. Do not leave notes. Arrange for lawn care and have someone remove advertising circulars and other debris regularly. On the other hand, several toys scattered about will create an impression of occupancy.
Notify the post office to forward your mail or have a trustworthy person pick it up daily. Stuffed mail receptacles are a give-away when no one is home.
Inform neighbors of your absence so they can be extra alert for suspicious persons. Leave a key with them so your place may be periodically inspected. Ask them to vary the positions of your shades and blinds.
Be aware that the death has been publicized in the newspapers. Some burglars specialize in reading newspaper accounts of people’s deaths.
If you find a door or window has been forced or broken while you were away, DO NOT ENTER. The criminal may still be inside. Use a neighbor’s phone immediately to summon police. Do not touch anything or clean up if a crime has occurred. Preserve the scene until police inspect for evidence.
ALWAYS REMEMBER TO:
1. Lock before you leave.
2. Trust a neighbor with a key.
3. Be a concerned neighbor – yourself.
The majority of devices mentioned in this report cost very little. All of them will help reduce burglary and make your house or apartment more secure. Begin with a home “security” check. Start with the front door and work clockwise around the entire inside of your home, finishing with a back yard, fence and shrubs, gates and garage. Shrubbery should never block the view of your front door. This allows an intruder the opportunity of privacy to gain entrance. A wide angle viewer in the door lets you know your visitor in advance. This item is recommended over a chain lock.
LOCKS, BOLTS AND HINGES
A DEATH-LATCH is an inexpensive lock set which keeps the burglar from simply slipping your door open with a plastic credit card. This method of entry is common in many areas, but very easy to prevent.
AUXILIARY DEADLOCK: 1″ deadbolt, single cylinder with hardened cylinder guard, and thumb turn. For extra security, a single cylinder deadbolt lock, with one inch throw and case-hardened insert, is recommended for all exterior doors. If you have easily breakable glass within 40 inches of a deadbolt lock, it should be augmented with a stronger type of glass or plastic to provide adequate security.
Most police departments do not recommend deadbolt locks for residential use. You may be adding additional security at the expense of personal safety with a double cylinder deadbolt. For example, you could lock yourself in and not be able to escape in case of fire or other emergency.
THE RIM LOCK is a 1″ deadbolt lock which is installed on the inside surface of the door. It is less expensive than other types of locks, but equally effective for security.
THE “JIMMY-PROOF” RIM LOCK is another lock which is installed on the inside surface of the door. But this lock has vertical dead bolts, which is an approved locking device.
CANE BOLTS: 1/2″ in diameter by 12″ high installed at the top and bottom of the inactive door offers minimum security. Many homes with pairs of doors, use half-barrel slidebolts on the inactive door. These are weak and totally inadequate.
FLUSH BOLTS: Installed at the top and bottom of the inactive door or a pair of doors, flush bolts offer additional security, since the intruder cannot get at these devices to tamper with them if the doors are locked.
HINGE PROTECTION
Some exterior doors are improperly installed so that the hinges are installed from outside. To protect such a door from being lifted from its hinges by pulling the hinge pin, follow these simple steps:
(1) Remove two screws, opposite each other, from both leaves of the hinge.
(2) Insert screw or concrete nail into jamb leaf, protruding 1/2″.
(3) Drill out the opposing screw hole in the door. Do this in the top and bottom hinge of the door. When closed, the hinge pins may be removed, but the door will remain firmly in place. Installed so that the hinges are installed from outside.
Many burglars enter homes by simply breaking glass windows. A good deterrent is to have better quality glass installed at vulnerable points around the perimeter of your residence. Most burglars avoid attempting to break the following types of glass due to the fear of attracting attention:
LAMINATED GLASS is made by a vinyl or plastic interlayer sandwiched between two layers of glass. This type of glass adds additional strength to your windows. To gain entry, a burglar would have to strike the glass repeatedly in the same spot in order to make a small opening. Most burglars are reluctant to create this type of noise for fear of being detected.
TEMPERED GLASS is made by placing a piece of regular glass in an oven, bringing it almost to the melting point, and then chilling it rapidly. This causes a skin to form around the glass. Fully tempered glass is four to five times stronger than regular glass.
WIRED GLASS adds the benefits of a visible deterrent. Extra effort will be needed to break the glass and then cut through the wire located within the glass, in order to gain entry.
PLASTICS: Plastic material is divided into two types: acrylic or polycarbonate. The acrylics are more than ten times stronger than glass of the same thickness and are commonly called plexiglass. Polycarbonate sheets are superior to acrylics and are advertised as 250 times more impact resistant than safety glass, and 20 times more than other transparent plastic.
With SLIDING WINDOWS the primary objective is to keep the window from sliding or being lifted up and out of the track. There are many manufactured products available for securing windows. Here are some of the suggestions:
PINNED WINDOW ANTI-SLIDE BLOCK SLIDEBOLT: It is not recommended that you lock a window in a ventilating position. This is an invitation to a prying action which can result in entry. Key locking devices offer no real security, and they can be a fire exit hazard.
CASEMENT WINDOWS are the simplest to secure. Make sure the latch works properly and that the “operator” has no excess play. If so, replace the worn hardware.
DOUBLE HUNG WINDOW latches may be jimmied open. If a window is not used, screw it shut (except bedrooms). For windows in use, drill a sloping hole into the top of the bottom window, through and into the bottom of the top window, and insert an easily removable pin or nail.
LOUVRE WINDOWS are bad security risks. Remove and replace with solid glass or other type of ventilating window. Or protect with a grate or grille (except bedrooms).
WARNING: One window in every bedroom on the ground and second floor must be left available as a fire exit, particularly for children and guests in you home. At night, the bedroom window may often be the quickest and safest means of getting out. Because of the danger of fire, decorative grills are not recommended on bedroom windows.
Published by FUN MATES PRESS